Kabukichō Never Sleeps

neighborhood
Godzilla and Tom in Shinjuku

History of Kabukichō

Kabukichō is one of Japan’s most prominent entertainment districts, located in Shinjuku Ward, Tokyo. Today, it is known as the “city that never sleeps,” often associated with a dazzling nightscape of neon lights. However, its origins trace back to postwar urban planning.

Originally, during the Edo period, this area was a rural village called Tsunohazu-mura. It was largely wetlands and sparsely populated. From the Meiji to Taishō periods, urbanization gradually progressed, and movie theaters and playhouses began to appear.

During World War II, much of the Shinjuku area was heavily damaged by air raids. As part of Japan’s postwar reconstruction efforts, a full-scale redevelopment of Shinjuku began. In 1947, local volunteers and the Tokyo Metropolitan Government proposed attracting a Kabuki theater to the area, envisioning its revival as a cultural hub.

Based on this plan, the area was named “Kabukichō” (Kabuki Town). However, due to financial difficulties and changes in urban development plans, the Kabuki theater was never built. Although the theater was never realized, the name remained—and still does to this day.

Between the 1950s and 1960s, Kabukichō underwent rapid commercialization, with movie theaters, restaurants, and cabarets springing up one after another. During this period, it firmly established its reputation as a “sleepless city,” drawing crowds in search of entertainment.

From the 1970s onward, nightlife businesses such as adult entertainment venues and host clubs began to flourish, shaping a distinctive night culture. The host club scene, in particular, became a phenomenon unique to Kabukichō, gaining recognition both in Japan and abroad.

On the other hand, from the 1980s to 1990s, the economic bubble fueled further commercialization, but it also brought problems. The infiltration of organized crime groups and foreign criminal organizations led to a noticeable decline in public safety, and Kabukichō became increasingly viewed as a dangerous area.

Since the 2000s, Shinjuku Ward and the Tokyo Metropolitan Government have intensified safety measures and redevelopment efforts. Surveillance cameras were installed, regulations on adult entertainment businesses were strengthened, and crackdowns on illegal establishments were carried out. These initiatives gradually began to change the area’s image.

In 2015, the former site of the Shinjuku Koma Theater was redeveloped into the Shinjuku Toho Building, which features a cinema topped with a Godzilla head and a hotel, becoming a new tourist attraction. This redevelopment has once again brought attention to Kabukichō as a center for tourism and entertainment.

Today, Kabukichō is more than just a nightlife district—it is a multifaceted urban space where film, music, host culture, and tourism intersect. Its postwar history is still evolving to this day.


Tourist Attractions in Kabukichō

Kabukichō is more than just a nightlife district—it is home to a variety of attractions popular with tourists. One of the most iconic landmarks is the Shinjuku Toho Building, which opened in 2015 on the former site of the Shinjuku Koma Theater. This multi-purpose complex houses a hotel, a cinema, and several restaurants.

On the building’s rooftop sits a massive Godzilla Head, which has become a popular photo spot for visitors. As an iconic character from Toho, Godzilla serves as a new symbol of Kabukichō. At night, its eyes light up and it lets out a roar, providing a dramatic experience.

Inside the Toho Building is TOHO Cinemas Shinjuku, where guests can enjoy the latest films in a comfortable setting. The building also includes Hotel Gracery Shinjuku, which offers unique lodging experiences such as Godzilla-themed rooms, earning high praise from international travelers.

A more recent highlight is the Kabukichō Tower, a large-scale entertainment complex that opened in 2023. The building features theaters, cinemas, a live music hall, a hotel, and a variety of restaurants. Among its attractions is Zepp Shinjuku, one of Japan’s largest live music venues, which regularly hosts events and serves as a hub for diverse cultural expression.

For those exploring the area at night, the Kabukichō Ichibangai Gate is highly recommended. Illuminated by neon lights, this street is a symbol of the “city that never sleeps.” Even a casual stroll offers a glimpse into the district’s vibrant energy. The street is lined with izakayas, ramen shops, bars, and karaoke joints, creating a welcoming atmosphere for tourists.

For a more surreal experience, the famous Robot Restaurant has drawn international attention with its dazzling shows and robot performances covered in lights. While it has been immensely popular among foreign visitors, its current operating status may vary, so it’s advisable to check in advance. It’s an ideal spot for those seeking something out of the ordinary.

Another must-see destination is Shinjuku Golden Gai, located on the eastern edge of Kabukichō. This area is filled with tiny bars and snack joints, housed in old wooden buildings that retain a postwar atmosphere. Known for attracting artists, writers, and film industry insiders, Golden Gai exudes a unique charm. With more English-friendly establishments appearing, it has become increasingly accessible to foreign tourists.

In addition, recreational facilities such as the Shinjuku Batting Center and the now-closed VR ZONE SHINJUKU once offered fun activities for couples and friends. Even today, Kabukichō continues to be a place where people of all kinds can find entertainment.

In this way, Kabukichō has evolved beyond its image as a nighttime entertainment district to become a comprehensive urban tourism destination, blending sightseeing, entertainment, lodging, and dining. A place where tradition and modernity coexist, Kabukichō offers something new with every visit.


A Brief Digression: Kabukichō’s Host Club Culture

A host club is a type of drinking establishment where male staff, known as hosts, entertain female clients. Kabukichō is recognized as the epicenter of host culture in Japan, with a scale and uniqueness that far surpass those found in other areas.

Host culture began to take root in the late 1970s through the 1980s. At the time, it was still considered a niche or subcultural industry, but with the rise of the bubble economy, host clubs gradually increased in number and became a prominent part of Kabukichō’s nightlife scene.

Hosts offer their clients an “extraordinary experience” through refined appearances, smooth conversation, and polished customer service. These establishments go beyond merely serving drinks—they provide emotionally immersive interactions, often resembling pseudo-romantic relationships or psychological comfort. For this reason, host clubs are sometimes described as “selling dreams.”

From the 2000s onward, the world of host clubs began attracting media attention. Famous venues like Ai Honten and Club Ai, along with charismatic hosts such as Roland, Hikaru Nagisa, and Nobunaga, rose to prominence.

Roland, in particular, gained fame through bold quotes like, “It’s either me or not me,” and became a media personality who helped transform public perceptions of hosts. He has since published business books based on his experiences and expanded into ventures such as fashion brands and beauty salons.

Today’s host culture goes beyond in-person service—hosts actively engage with fans via social media and YouTube, making their presence felt on platforms like Instagram and TikTok. This digital outreach has helped host culture permeate younger generations, giving rise to a fandom-style phenomenon in which customers enthusiastically support their favorite hosts, known as oshi hosto.

However, host clubs are not without controversy. There have been reports of customers falling into debt due to excessive bottle purchases or uri-kake (buying on credit). Additionally, issues such as addiction to hosts and connections to the adult entertainment industry or borrowing from shady lenders have emerged as social concerns.

For the hosts themselves, it’s a highly competitive world where popularity determines success. Monthly sales rankings are publicly released, and a host’s status is defined by numbers. The job demands relentless effort, self-discipline, and considerable mental resilience.

Despite these challenges, Kabukichō’s host culture retains an allure unlike any other. The extravagant fashion, champagne towers, and personal dramas of the night continue to captivate public interest.

In recent years, host clubs have been the subject of TV dramas, manga, and documentaries, drawing attention to their cultural significance. No longer merely seen as part of the nightlife industry, they now represent a unique facet of contemporary urban culture in Japan.


Shinjuku-Based Sightseeing Model Courses – Kabukichō Edition


Model Course ①: Classic Meets Contemporary – A Night in Kabukichō

Morning | Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden (5-min walk from Shinjuku-gyoenmae Station)
A serene oasis in the city where Japanese, English, and French-style gardens harmoniously blend across spacious grounds. Cherry blossoms in spring and colorful foliage in autumn are must-sees.
Tip: Take a break at the stylish, Japanese-modern “Starbucks Coffee Shinjuku Gyoen,” located inside the park.

Lunch | Edo-style Sushi @ “Ooedo Sushi” (Isetan Shinjuku Store)
Directly accessible from Shinjuku Sanchome Station. Enjoy premium non-conveyor belt sushi at a long-established department store restaurant—affordable luxury in the heart of the city.

Afternoon | Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building Observation Deck (Direct from Tochomae Station)
Admission is free. At 202 meters above ground, the deck offers panoramic views of the Shinjuku skyline—and on clear days, Mount Fuji. A hit among international visitors.

Early Evening | Head to the Shinjuku Toho Building in Kabukichō

  • Don’t miss the Godzilla Head on the 8th-floor terrace of the TOHO Cinemas building—a perfect photo spot and modern landmark.
  • Watch the latest Japanese or international films at TOHO Cinemas Shinjuku in a comfortable theater setting.

Dinner | Izakaya Experience @ “Omoide Yokocho” or “Tsukada Nojo Kabukichō”

  • Omoide Yokocho: A retro alleyway lined with yakitori and stew joints. English menus available.
  • Tsukada Nojo: A casual national chain specializing in local chicken dishes. Welcoming for international guests.

Late Night | Bar-Hopping in Golden Gai (1–2 Bars)
Explore the iconic Golden Gai with its narrow alleys and tiny bars.
Beginner-friendly options with English-speaking staff include KENZO’S BAR and Albatross G.


Model Course ②: Pop Culture & Kabukichō’s Entertainment Night

Morning | Anime & Game Shop Tour around Shinjuku East Exit

  • Animate Shinjuku: Manga, anime goods, and cosplay items.
  • Surugaya Shinjuku Marui Annex: A treasure trove of retro games and figures.
  • Sofmap Shinjuku: Great for electronics, PCs, and gadgets.

Lunch | Immersive Dining @ “Xi’an Knife-Cut Noodles & Hotpot” (Shinjuku Branch)
Experience authentic Shaanxi cuisine with freshly sliced knife-cut noodles. A popular spot for exotic culinary adventure.

Afternoon | VR Experience @ “TYFFONIUM Shinjuku” (in Kabukichō)
A fusion of virtual reality and immersive art. Horror attraction “Corridor” and fantastical worlds are top picks. English support available.

Early Evening | Explore “Kabukichō Tower” (Opened 2023)
Inside the Tokyu Kabukichō Tower, you’ll find:

  • 109 Cinemas Premium
  • Live venue Zepp Shinjuku for concerts and events
    Relax on the upper floors at Hotel Groove Shinjuku with a view over the city.

Dinner | Premium BBQ @ “Yakiniku Toraji Kabukichō”
Enjoy top-grade wagyu in private rooms. English menus are available—perfect for travelers seeking an upscale yakiniku experience.

Late Night | Observe Host Culture (Tourist-Friendly Bar or Host Club)

  • Dansō Café & Bar 77: A beginner-friendly venue where women dressed as male hosts serve customers in a host-like manner.
  • Authentic host clubs: Try “Ai Honten” or “Smappa! Group” (Note: reservations or introductions may be required).

Model Course ③: Serenity & Energy – For Solo Travelers or Couples

Morning | Stroll Through Kagurazaka (Approx. 10 mins via Tokyo Metro Tozai Line from Shinjuku)
Explore narrow alleys like Hyogo Yokocho, visit the tranquil Akagi Shrine, and soak in the nostalgic charm of this historic neighborhood.
Try traditional sweets like matcha anmitsu at the famed dessert shop Kinozen.

Lunch | French-Japanese Fusion @ “Le Bretagne Kagurazaka”
A Breton-style crêperie offering authentic galettes in a Japanese-modern interior—perfect for couples or a quiet solo lunch.

Afternoon | Stroll Around Shinjuku Central Park & Tokyo Metropolitan Area
Enjoy the green landscape set against the backdrop of skyscrapers.
Chic café & dining spot SHUKNOVA, located in the park, offers a stylish place to relax.

Early Evening | Tea Time @ “Bonjour” Café in Hotel Gracery Shinjuku
Enjoy a view of the Godzilla Head while relaxing at this hotel café—a unique experience from high above the streets.

Dinner | Refined Japanese Cuisine @ “Ichirin Shinjuku”
Dine on premium sukiyaki and shabu-shabu made from domestic black wagyu in a serene, modern Japanese atmosphere. A favorite among international guests.

Nightcap | Choose from These Must-Visit Bars

  • Bar Benfiddich: Globally acclaimed for its creative cocktails made from herbs and spices.
  • Bar Orchard: A literary-themed bar filled with books and fruit-based cocktails—well-known among Haruki Murakami fans.

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